panhead screwsĭrywall: Screw-in anchors #6 1 1/2-in. Plaster: Plastic sleeves that accept #8 screws Hollow-core Door: Hollow-core door anchors Hollow-core Door: Panhead screws and hollow-core door anchorsĭrywall: Screw-in anchors, molly bolts or toggle bolts Plaster: Plastic sleeves, #6 panhead screws Hollow-core Door: Screw through picture or bulletin board frame and into hollow-core door anchors in at least two locations Plaster: Plastic sleeve, #6 or #8 panhead screw with flat-mount hook panhead screwĭrywall: Screw-in anchors with flat-mount hook If you haven’t used a particular anchor before, practice installation on a scrap piece of drywall or plywood paneling. With some fastening jobs (hanging a large picture frame or bulletin board, for example), you can spread the load by using more than one anchor. It’s always better to err on the heavy-duty side when selecting an anchor for drywall, plaster, a hollow-core door and paneling. You can trim a plastic bolt flush with its nut after installation.Įxpanding plastic sleeve What fastener is best for…? Fit the item to be anchored over the bolt, then insert the toggle and tighten. To install: Bore a hole in the wall large enough to accommodate the toggle. Plastic versions hold medium loads in drywall and plaster. Metal toggle bolts can support heavy loads in drywall, plaster and hollow-core concrete block. To install: Use the same technique as for standard molly bolts. These miniature molly bolts will hold light to heavy loads in hollow-core doors and 1/4-in.-thick paneling. Install item by driving a #6 screw into the flange hole. To install: Tap the pointed end and flat shank into wall until the top flange is flush with the wall surface. These easy-to-use fasteners are best for light loads. Once the molly is secure, unscrew the bolt and then replace it with the item in place. Take care not to overtighten you’ll know this is happening if the anchor flange starts to depress the surface of the plaster or drywall. Turn the screw to “mushroom” the slotted sleeve against the back wall surface. To install: Seat the round flange flush with the wall surface by tapping the screwhead. Nonpointed versions require an installation hole, and work well in old plaster-and-lath walls. Pointed mollys can be tapped into place with a hammer. These are not as easy to use as other drywall anchors, but they’re still good to have on hand for medium to heavy loads. L-shaped plastic retainers for installing wall-mounted mirrors. For heavier loads, use a flat-mounted hook and an anchor. Large versions installed with an angled nail can support up to 20 lbs. It’s good to have a selection of these on hand in different sizes. Depending on size, sleeves will take #4, #6 or #8 screws. Fasten by driving a screw into the sleeve. You should need to tap it home with a hammer until the anchor flange seats against the surface. To install: Drill a hole that allows a snug fit for the sleeve. Anchors designed to spread their “wings” are less susceptible to withdrawal. See page 60 to find out which fastener to use for the most common jobs around the house.Īvailable in several varieties, these work well for light and medium loads Anchors like the blue version don’t expand enough to grab well in drywall they work better in plaster and best in masonry. Put together your own collection, and you won’t need to run to the store every time a hanging job comes up. But, fortunately, there is an anchor for just about any hanging job you can think of. These surfaces separate space, not support weight. Plaster walls and hollow-core doors are no picnic to work on either. It’s tricky to fasten something to drywall when it has to go between studs.
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